New Egg Delights (and New Eggs Delight)

Hens salute the return of springtime light by laying more eggs. I join their salute by eating eggs more often, in more variations.

Eggs from neighboring Fourth Street Farm

Eggs from neighboring Fourth Street Farm

Particularly exciting: recipes that use my usual stock of ready ingredients in new ways, and techniques that treat those ingredients in unfussy ways to make new forms of deliciousness. Here are two:

Scrambled eggs, not exactly scrambled. This technique changed my dislike of scrambled eggs (even the 30-minute French type) into “Yes, please” by coaxing whites and yolks separately toward their best selves, all within the same skillet. How?

  • Break eggs directly into a buttered saucepan over medium-low heat and stir around only the whites until they cook through. I use a small silicone spatula and stir just enough to get silky white chunks.

  • Then and only then gently break the egg yolks and fold them into the cooked whites, stopping at your preferred doneness.

A digression: I like knowing the provenance of ingredients, recipes, and cuisine. In this case:

Emily Johnson at Epicurious traces the technique through. . .

—>Rachel Khong, an editor at the late, lamented Lucky Peach magazine who produced a 2017 book, All About Eggs. . .

—>that includes a recipe from Caroline Fidanza, owner and chef at Brooklyn restaurant Saltie*, also now sadly shuttered. . .

—>who credits one of the restaurant’s co-owners, Rebecca Collerton, for the technique.

—>Even more sadly, we cannot ask Rebecca. If we could, I’d bet a dozen perfect, pastured Kentucky eggs she would credit someone else.

So it goes with provenance, the only kind of genealogy that matters to me. With both food and family we can trace origins back a few steps and enjoy the stories we discover, but then the search diffuses into mystery.

If you like egg flavor but dislike any of the usual textures of scrambled eggs (especially those with little hard pellets of overcooked whites strewn through gluey yolks) try Rebecca Collerton’s method.

Most likely, these eggs deserve a new name that does not remind us of all those scrambled failures. Tender Pan-cooked Butter Eggs? Maybe, but replacing the butter with olive oil or bacon fat would also work wonders while defying the name.

Julia Turshen’s Olive Oil-Fried Eggs with Yogurt & Lemon. See? I wouldn’t be surprised if you usually have eggs, olive oil, unsweetened yogurt and a lemon in the house. Food52 selected this recipe from activist recipe developer Julia Turshen’s 2016 cookbook, Small Victories, designating it a Genius Recipe: “. . . it will reshape your morning, or night, or right now.” I look forward to the boost my tender fresh herbs will give this dish once the green things catch up to the spring eggs. Yes, I didn’t mention the herbs that appear in the recipe. You could do without them, but you may not need to. I’ve been using arugula instead, fresh from Elmwood Stock Farm in February, people! Delicious.

Later, I’d like to write more about eggs and their delights. Even basic boiled eggs work differently in my kitchen than they used to. I’ll tell all.

*Bonus: The chefs at Saltie made this cookbook.

Sponsors included in this post: Elmwood Stock Farm. Thank you!

Rona RobertsComment